Working on my first AR 15 build it will be a 300 blackout pistol. Any advice would be appreciated.

[closing]

both are 7.5 in barrels one 1:7 twist one 1:8 I do want to make it versatile so was unsure. Both PSA and same price so not sure what I'm missing, any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Dfalt]

Never built a 300 blackout specifically but I built the 10.5 5.56 in my profile pic and imagine it wouldn't be too different. I think the 1:7 twist would be the barrel I'd go with as you need as much spin as possible on barrels that short. For a trigger I'd suggest a Geissle SSA-E or a LaRue MBT but milspec would be fine. Toolcraft makes a solid BCG that shouldn't run you too much money but that's hard to say right now. For buffer tube I went with the VLTOR A5 system as it's meant for suppressed use and you can get different springs and weights for it to suit your needs. If you don't already have one look into getting a .30 cal suppressor for it and some subsonic ammo for the optimal use case for the round. The brand I'd personally recommend is Surefire; they're a bit pricey but they're some of the most durable cans on the market which is a huge deal for NFA items and their mounts are great flash hiders/brakes in their own right. Also if you need help putting it together Youtube is your friend; tons of AR assembly videos out there and I can say from my experience you'll likely need it for the trigger and bolt catch unless you've done one before. Overall it's not too hard a job though and I think every gun owner should build an AR at least once for the experience.

 

[closing]

Never built a 300 blackout specifically but I built the 10.5 5.56 in my profile pic and imagine it wouldn't be too different. I think the 1:7 twist would be the barrel I'd go with as you need as much spin as possible on barrels that short. For a trigger I'd suggest a Geissle SSA-E or a LaRue MBT but milspec would be fine. Toolcraft makes a solid BCG that shouldn't run you too much money but that's hard to say right now. For buffer tube I went with the VLTOR A5 system as it's meant for suppressed use and you can get different springs and weights for it to suit your needs. If you don't already have one look into getting a .30 cal suppressor for it and some subsonic ammo for the optimal use case for the round. The brand I'd personally recommend is Surefire; they're a bit pricey but they're some of the most durable cans on the market which is a huge deal for NFA items and their mounts are great flash hiders/brakes in their own right. Also if you need help putting it together Youtube is your friend; tons of AR assembly videos out there and I can say from my experience you'll likely need it for the trigger and bolt catch unless you've done one before. Overall it's not too hard a job though and I think every gun owner should build an AR at least once for the experience.

I agree about building at least one, This is alot of good info and parts for me to research I highly appreciate it!

 

[Dfalt]

Don't mention it. I did think about a few things I forgot to bring up earlier though:
1. You're going to need a few tools for the job, namely an armorer's wrench (get the Tapco one, they're fairly cheap and GTG), a hammer and punch set, and an allen wrench set.
2. Don't forget to stake the castle nut once you have it screwed onto the lower. This will keep it from backing out on you over time as you build up your round count.
3. Make sure do the job in a clear, well lit area because at some point you're going to lose a spring, detent, or pin and will need to be able to find it. Having a magnet handy will make this easier.

 

[closing]

Don't mention it. I did think about a few things I forgot to bring up earlier though:
1. You're going to need a few tools for the job, namely an armorer's wrench (get the Tapco one, they're fairly cheap and GTG), a hammer and punch set, and an allen wrench set.
2. Don't forget to stake the castle nut once you have it screwed onto the lower. This will keep it from backing out on you over time as you build up your round count.
3. Make sure do the job in a clear, well lit area because at some point you're going to lose a spring, detent, or pin and will need to be able to find it. Having a magnet handy will make this easier.

honestly the staking is what I am nervous about doing I do have an armors wrench but I am looking up some tools I need to do it properly because thats about it and a vice and i do need a proper punch set and I believe a torque wrench for more than just the ar not sure what a good brand is

 

[Dfalt]

You'll only need the torque wrench and vise if you're putting the upper together yourself; if you bought them pre-assembled you're fine without them. I assembled my lower in my room at my computer desk with no vise but it could come in handy. That said if you ever want to change out the muzzle device on your barrel you will need a torque wrench for that

 

[closing]

You'll only need the torque wrench and vise if you're putting the upper together yourself; if you bought them pre-assembled you're fine without them. I assembled my lower in my room at my computer desk with no vise but it could come in handy. That said if you ever want to change out the muzzle device on your barrel you will need a torque wrench for that

I was going to attempt to assembly one myself yes but i may get one without BCG and charging handle at least perhaps a good beginner start

 

[DB35114]

Here is basic stuff I use for putting uppers and lowers together also good vice and torx bit set some handguards have them instead of Allen head and a few barrel shims on hand too if needed
It may be cheaper to buy one but learning how to do it yourself will be more serving in the long term

 

[closing]

Here is basic stuff I use for putting uppers and lowers together also good vice and torx bit set some handguards have them instead of Allen head and a few barrel shims on hand too if needed
It may be cheaper to buy one but learning how to do it yourself will be more serving in the long term

Thank you that is very helpful yes just trying to learn for the long term.

 

[RandallC]

Harbor freight or Lowe’s for the punch set. Will be cheap. Hammer also I guess.

Don’t forget to check on deals from wikiarms and ar15.com also

 

[Dfalt]

Harbor freight or Lowe’s for the punch set. Will be cheap. Hammer also I guess.

Don’t forget to check on deals from wikiarms and ar15.com also

I don't like Reddit too much anymore these days, but to add to this r/gundeals is probably the best deal aggregator for gun stuff that I know of.

 

[closing]

I don't like Reddit too much anymore these days, but to add to this r/gundeals is probably the best deal aggregator for gun stuff that I know of.

Thanks I will check them out, appreciate all the help guys!

 

[Dfalt]

r/gundeals and Ammoseek are two sites every gun owner that knows how to use a computer should have in his toolbox.

 

[Quickbeam]

I have a psa 300 bo pistol. 8.5" barrel and 8 twist. I shoot 245 gr lead bullets at 1k fps just fine to 100 yards. Never shot it a paper further than that to check for key holing. I'm surprised they even bother making barrels with just 1 twist difference. In theory I guess the extra twist will buy a little more range of stability. I doubt most shooters would ever notice.

 

[closing]

I have a psa 300 bo pistol. 8.5" barrel and 8 twist. I shoot 245 gr lead bullets at 1k fps just fine to 100 yards. Never shot it a paper further than that to check for key holing. I'm surprised they even bother making barrels with just 1 twist difference. In theory I guess the extra twist will buy a little more range of stability. I doubt most shooters would ever notice.

what upper do you have i had looked at a couple on there site

 

[Quickbeam]

Not sure. I traded for it complete already. Is "PA multi" an option? It's got a 7" mlock shroud on it.

 

[closing]

Not sure. I traded for it complete already. Is "PA multi" an option? It's got a 7" mlock shroud on it.

ok it sounds close to what i was looking at, a 7in mlok on it and a 8.5 in barrel i think only 1:7 twist tho

 

[Quickbeam]

Yeah. Sounds like it excpet for the twist rate. Ya know the 7 twist is faster and will stabilize a slightly heavier bullet, right? Again i think either twist if fine.

 

[closing]

Yeah. Sounds like it excpet for the twist rate. Ya know the 7 twist is faster and will stabilize a slightly heavier bullet, right? Again i think either twist if fine.

Honestly I wasn't for sure but most likely will be using it at 50-75 yards with a heavier projectile so 1:7 sounds good. The main thing I don't fully understand is the chrome lined barrel and barrel flip but maybe I'm getting ahead of myself with that. I just know its a heavy barrel.

 

[Quickbeam]

I'm not familiar with that barrel flip term either, but the chrome i believe is to extend the life fo the barrel or reduce fouling.